Travel Log/Hotel review: Living in the 1500s via Fort Neemrana in Rajasthan, India

What was life like before air conditioning, the internet, and smart phone (seriously, I barely remember life before the internet  - ahh the dark ages!)

Overall Review
I embrace the trappings of modernity, but am also enamored of architecture and sites that recall the past.  It is pretty amazing and difficult to find sites like Neemrana Fort-palace in Rajasthan that was built in 1464.  My good friend got married there and it was a great chance to stay at the fort as well.  While you have to endure a 3+ hour drive from Delhi to the fort, you will see so many interesting things (the drive itself is an adventure and we got in an accident on the way back - keep your eyes closed).  We slowed down for camel traffic and saw the city melt away into the country side.  Have patience during your drive and don't be afraid of oncoming traffic (I would have a heart attack if I drove here!)

The fort itself has such beautiful character.  The outdoor areas had such vibrant color without being too bold.  Don't you love the turquoise chairs?  I also loved all the beautiful doorways - each one peeked into another corner of the fort.

Room
I loved attending a wedding at the fort and getting to stay here.  Keep in mind that the amenities aren't super modern so the shower may take a little longer to warm up and you'll have to remember to bring your large key around.  There is a wide variety of rooms too so I'd recommend a splurge if you want a bit more space.

Service
Service is great and there is always someone to help with a bag or offer a drink.  There is a lot of staff around, but their English isn't always great so keep that in mind.

Pricing
The pricing really ranges - right now the rooms range from 2500 to 22000 Rps (or about $50-$440).  If you're with a group, get a suite for a lot less!  Our room was on the lower-middle end of the range.

Facilities
Be careful and wear comfortable shoes around the complex because there are a lot of stairs everywhere as well as a steep walk up from the front gate.  Otherwise the restaurants were modern and the pool well maintained.

I hope you enjoyed my peek inside this fort palace!

Travel Log: A Northern Indian Wedding at Neemrana Fort-Palace in Rajasthan, India

What do you imagine when you picture an Indian wedding?

If you envision vibrant jewel tones, contagious singing and dancing, and a visual delight of ceremony and fashion you are right on! This was actually the fifth Indian (Hindu) wedding I've attended but my first one in this region. The wedding venue, Neemrana Fort-Palace, only added to the romantic vibe of the occasion. The beautiful arches and architecture hailed from 1464 and have been restored in beautiful detail.   I'll write a separate review about the Fort because it was really lovely.   It was quite an experience walking on such lovely and historic grounds.  The warm colors and grand spaces just enhanced the beauty of the wedding itself (really when will you witness a wedding in an amphitheater?!)

Here are the highlights of the wedding:
The bride receives henna and there are lots of performances at the sangeet the day before the ceremony.

Flower petals adorn the grounds during the wedding day.

The bharat band and groom are here on the wedding day!  Don't try to out dance a middle-aged Indian lady.  You will lose and I can only say "Told you so!"

The ceremony progresses (for a while - it is actually common for most guests to leave because it is so long and the poor couple and family are left alone on stage!)

I told you it was in an amphitheater - lovely venue!

 What a way to end the night!

Travel Log: Journey to the Taj Mahal in Agra, India

What is the biggest thing you have ever done for love?

Hmm, I can't say I'm sure what my answer would be but I do show my husband I love him every day in small ways (so that adds up right?)  I also can't begin to compete with grand acts of love like building a 561 foot marble ode to my partner.  The Taj Mahal was built by Mughal emperor Shah Jahan for his third wife Mumtaz Mahal; this white marble mausoleum is the finest example of Mughal (Indian, Persian, Turkish) architecture that exists today.

So it goes without saying that it is a must visit site if you are spending some time by Delhi and can spare 5 hours to get to Agra.  Yes five hours on a highway with no distinct lanes, traffic rules (think cars coming towards you from the opposite direction), and camel traffic.  Yes camel traffic.  While I'm actually more traumatized by the traffic than the mild car accident we experienced, I am glad we got to visit the Taj Mahal.  It is a long drive there so I would actually go again and stay at least one night so I can visit the nearby forts and Fatehpur Shikri (I visited once and it is truly stunning!)

Tip: Stay at or have a meal at the Oberoi Amaravilas.  The hotel is simply stunning and luxurious -like an oasis in the city.  You can also buy your tickets to the Taj Mahal in advance from them (the ticket office is a few blocks away from the site) and they will send you there in a golf cart for free since cars aren't allowed within a few blocks of the Taj Mahal.

Since you will be waiting a while just to enter the Taj Mahal (the queues can be crazy!), take your time, look at the beautiful detail, and enjoy the grounds. Oh and you might want to consider bringing socks because you have to remove your shoes or wear shoe covers!

Travel Log: Contrasts in Mumbai

I've been to about seven or eight cities in India, but have gone back to Mumbai a few times for business.  One of the first words that pops into my mind when I think about Mumbai is the word: contrast .  It is a harmony of different and distinct elements.  The vibe can change dramatically in different parts of the city.  There is a relatively linear hustle of the city along Marine Drive while there can be a chaotic mix of vehicles and people in the suburbs. One may see luxurious store and house fronts in one section, but be confronted with the cramped confines of the slums in another section.  The symbols of the old British days remain (Gateway of India) but the culture and spirit of the residents rule.

Mumbai remains a place with a bustling energy and exuberance.  I liked the shopping a bit more in Delhi, but loved the seafood here (Mumbai is known for seafood).  Here are some highlights of what I'd recommend in Mumbai.

Stroll around Marine drive and visit the Gateway of India

Have a meal at Mahesh's (talk about fresh seafood!)

Relax and enjoy a view of the queen's necklace via the Intercontinental hotel

Happy Diwali/Festival of Lights!

Happy Diwali to my friends that celebrate this holiday!  This Hindu festival of lights is marked by the lighting of small clay lamps filled with oil to celebrate the triumph of good over evil.  It is a communal time of family and sharing of good food and fun.

My colleague and I happen to be in Mumbai at this time and aren't sure what to do.  We hope to stumble on some Diwali lights and observe some wonderful things in the city (hopefully places will be open!)  Suggestions are welcome of course.

While I don't celebrate Diwali, I can appreciate a time for family and fun. It will be good to get back home this weekend!

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CnC Living Travel Log: Incredible India - Sarnath (site of Buddha's 1st sermon) - a pilgrimage to Varanasi (pt. 2 of 2)

My journey through the heartlands of India continues - see the first part of my Varanasi trip here.  We also visited Sarnath - which is an important Buddhist pilgrimage center and where Buddha delivered his first sermon.  

The Ashokan column was also located here and dates from the 3rd century BC to 12th century AD.  It consists of four twenty spoked wheels with four animals (elephant, bull, horse, lion).  The animals are thought to represent four stages of Buddha's life.  The non-religious interpretation is an enlightened rule over four directions.

The Mulganda Kuti - where Buddha used to sit in meditation.

The sides of the Panchaytan temple (first picture) used to be painted gold.  Pilgrims walk around the temple and leave flowers and candles as they pray.

I was touched by the passion and devotion of the Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims.  You could see it in their faces and actions as the joy and spirituality filled them.  The views of the ghats during sunrise and sunset was unforgettable.  But, Varanasi was also a very tough city to visit.  The level of pollution and dust was among the worst I'd ever experienced (I've been to some very polluted cities too).  The animals were rampant in the streets and even on the steps of the Banaras Ghats.  It was interesting to see these two aspects next to each other.  Of course I'm still glad I had this experience. 

Note: At most Indian tourist and cultural sites, you will see an "Indian National" price and a "Foreigner" price.  Inevitably the "Foreigner" price is several times higher though still reasonable.

Have you visited a pilgrimage center?  What was your experience like?

CnC Living Travel Log: Incredible India - Sunrise/Sunset at Banares Ghats - a pilgrimage to Varanasi (pt. 1 of 2)

Sarnath and Banaras Ghats (steps) in Varanasi are not among the top international tourist destinations for India, but they are among the top spiritual destinations for Buddhists and Hindus, respectively.  While I practice neither of those religions, I thought it would be great to witness those that are truly devout at a site that is so special to them.  My friend M referred to Varanasi as the "heartland" of India. 

These views of the Banaras Ghats were pretty priceless (actually $3-$10 to rent the boat complete with our own "driver" so pretty chic 'n cheap).  I'll let the pictures speak for themselves.  Again, these are all my friend M's pictures.

The view at night was lively, colorful, noisy and a complete break from the sunrise view.  It was pretty magical.